The area that was once home to the Cypress structure in West Oakland has been barren of retail business since the freeway collapse in the 1989 earthquake.

Oh, there is a big recycling center and some light manufacturing, and pockets of artists who need large spaces for their work.

 When it came to eating, though, you had to follow the musical tones of a rolling-catering truck.

 Enter chef and cookbook author Tanya Holland, who lives not far from Mandela Parkway.

 She says she circled the building, situated on a pie-shaped piece of land at 2534 Mandela Parkway, several times.

 And a few months ago, she opened  Brown Sugar Kitchen.

What a joy!

Every day there is a delicious gumbo, one day with smoked chicken, shrimp and okra. Don't miss the cornbread or BBQ ribs. The po' boy with tender shrimp was so much better than I had in New Orleans.  The Cajun meatloaf will set your taste buds quivering for more.

Prices are friendly: Appetizers $5-6; mains $9.50-14; desserts $6.

Brown Sugar Kitchen

Cuisine: Southern-style food

2534 Mandela Parkway

510-839-SOUL (7685)

www.brownsugarkitchen.com